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A Medical Drama in Abruzzo

People cannot help unless they know you need help.

The vast majority of people want to help.

I firmly believe that both those statements are true and are even more valid in a foreign country.

My most recent experience of this involved an insect bite that wasn’t an insect bite, a pharmacist whose wife drove me to a doctor’s surgery, a doctor who didn’t change for the consult and finally that same pharmacist staying open after hours to give me the medicine I needed.

I suppose sometime I was going to encounter the need for a doctor in Abruzzo. I’ve spent a lot of time here and up until last week apart from zanzare bites I haven’t had to deal with much of a medical nature.

Last week I got a series of bites and thought nothing of them. Most disappeared after going through the itchy stage but one in particular stayed around. Not only did it stay around but it got more red and swollen daily. Coming back from a walking trip in the Majella Mountains I finally realised that maybe this red, raw, swollen area wasn’t a bite after all.

Now the location of the red, raw, swollen area was not one I wanted to shout about. It’s silly really but there are still bodily areas that I prefer not to talk about and this painful area was too close to one of them.

The people I was with realised there was something wrong though, as I was not my usual gazelle-like self bounding up the final ascent (I’m not sure when I’ve ever been “my usual gazelle-like self” but you get the picture).

So pushing embarrassment aside I explained the problem and said that I don’t know if I need a doctor or not. D, who was travelling in the car with us, told us about a pharmacist who goes well beyond the usual pill dispensing duties and has seen so many ailments he can usually tell if a doctor is needed or not. The great thing about this guy was he was nearby and open.

I arrived hoping he would understand my attempt at Italian ER-speak, recognise the problem right away, know the species of nasty insect that did this to me, and give me a miracle cure that would allow me to be fully functional the next morning.

It didn’t quite work like that. I had a discreet conversation with him (my Italian worked well) and he said he’d have to see the problem before commenting. That made perfect sense so we went into a side office and after he took a peek he said I needed a doctor and it would be best to go soon as possible as it could get worse.

I’d no idea where to find a doctor at close to 8 pm on a Friday evening and the idea of my problem getting worse didn’t really appeal so I naturally I asked where I’d find one. I wasn’t expecting much but before I knew it he’d organised his wife to bring me to a surgery that opened at 8 pm about 1 km away. He also looked serious and said “this doctor is good”; music to my ears.

We’re getting close to the end of the story at this stage. I visited the doctor, again my Italian held up (sort-of) and he prescribed antibiotics and pain killers. He said he was back there on Sunday night (yes I said Sunday night) if I needed him again but he expected I’d notice some improvement before then. As for a charge he said niente. I can’t imagine getting out of a doctor’s surgery in Ireland for less than €50.

Back to the now closed pharmacy and the pharmacist who was so helpful earlier very kindly fulfilled the prescription and sent me on my way.

The whole process took less than an hour and not only that I was told it was OK to drink a little Montepulciano d’Abruzzo while I was recovering.

I believe I have just been part of a minor medical miracle.

A Doll's Transformation on Ferragosto in Loreto Aprutino

On Sunday August 15th, Ferragosto, we had a dilemma. Travel to Cappelle Sul Tavo (PE) for the Palio Delle Pupe or stay in Loreto Aprutino and walk up to the church of Santa Maria in Piano (also known as San Rocco) and enjoy the Festa dell’Assunta e di San Rocco.

The Palio Delle Pupe in Cappelle Sul Tavo is definitely more spectacular. Fifteen districts compete in an event involving a procession of the dolls (le pupe) representing each area, followed by each doll dancing and exploding into a unique firework display.

Our plan on this trip to Abruzzo definitely included going to the Palio.

But as a result of a few decisions we made and a few invitations we received we decided to skip the Cappelle Sul Tavo event in favour of the festa in Loreto Aprutino.

One of the invitations that could’ve swayed us to go to Cappelle Sul Tavo came from A & S who were travelling to the Palio from close to Civitella Casanova. They were passing near Loreto Aprutino and offered to pick us up and take us with them. It was a very tempting offer and we gave it plenty of thought before declining.

I think the main reasons we decided to go to Festa dell’Assunta e di San Rocco was there was going to be one doll dancing and exploding with fireworks, so we’d get a feel for the Palio even if it was a reduced set, also several friends from Loreto Aprutino said that their festa was small but good, including a band (I’m a sucker for a band) and dancing.

Our friends that went to the Palio Delle Pupe had a great time and enjoyed some spectacular displays. They also saw some locals letting their hair down and becoming more passionate than is usual at an Abruzzo festa. That said, whenever things seemed to get a little out of hand the police were there to calm the situation without resorting to taking anyone away. This softly-softly approach was very appropriate to the inherent joy of the event.

But we didn’t see any of that. We arrived outside the church of Santa Maria in Piano at about 21:35. The band that was due to start at 21:30 was already in full swing with locals already waltzing around the car park turned dance floor.

We arrived starving. We knew we could get something to eat at the festa and decided to skip dinner in favour of whatever was available. So on arrival my primary focus was to get two porchetta panini and a couple of bottles of beer. We found a spot to sit down a little away from the dance floor but in the company of friends we’d run into when we arrived.

The pupa or doll wasn’t due to make an appearance until 23:30 so after scoffing the porchetta and quaffing baffo d’oro we wandered around taking in the atmosphere.

I took a few photos of Loreto Aprutino at night, and of the band and the locals enjoying the music. From the north side of the church you could see the fireworks display of the dolls in Cappelle Sul Tavo a few kilometres away.

The band played traditional music, waltzes, mazurcas and plenty more styles that I can’t remember. A cynic might look at the musicians, think old time ballroom dances and scoff, but they certainly knew how to play and knew what their audience wanted to hear. Everybody went away more than satisfied.

It didn’t seem to take too long for our pupa to make an appearance. I tried to get a good position so I could take photographs but barriers were erected and everyone had to stay behind them. The vigile who gently encouraged us to move to a safer position told us it was for our own safety as the fireworks are dangerous. Well nobody got hurt and everybody was impressed by the display so I think he knew what he was talking about.

From some of the images you can see the jeans of the very brave dancer who controls the doll as it moves in time to the music while firing rockets and missiles into the night sky. Not a job I’d volunteer for.

In Italian the word for doll is pupa. But I couldn’t help thinking of the English word pupa that is often used to describe an insect’s early life before it transforms into a more spectacular adult stage. Perhaps we’re not taking butterflies here but the fairly innocuous doll becomes a thing of significant and short-lived beauty after being transformed by the dancer and the fireworks.

After a year’s hibernation, it’ll all happen again next year.

The Secret Life Of Trees

The olives in Abruzzo won’t be ready for harvesting for a few months yet. I think it was around October last year that I tasted new oil for the first time so there is still about two months to go.

Back in spring the trees were trimmed and cleared so that they’d send all their nutrients to the best growth areas and ensure a good tasty crop.

Up early one morning I took this photograph and it made me imagine that in the early morning light, if you don’t disturb the olives and are very, very quiet, you can see the trees stretching their limbs and getting ready for a good days growth.

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Some of the trees in this photograph look as though they are dancing, ballet perhaps or maybe some form of tribal sun worship.

I’m not talking about the trees to the front. They obviously knew I was there and were wary. But if you look closely at the trees in the background, those still basking in the early morning silvery light, you can see ballet poses, yoga positions and even one slightly tardy tree just thinking about touching its toes.

There’s more to Abruzzo Olive Oil than meets the eye, I think.