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Fresh food from the Abruzzo Countryside

Most people we know living in Abruzzo grow their own fruit and vegetables. The growing season is long and that means they can have fresh produce practically whenever they want it. Even though it often seems that if you drop a seed into Abruzzo soil it will flourish; it is still hard work.

Those that live in the towns and villages often have a plot of land nearby as gardens in the centro storico are hard to come by.

Yesterday morning at about 07:30 we walked out of the town following directions that brought us to a small plot of land that friends of ours use to grow their vegetables. When we got there we were a bit later than intended and most of the work had already been done.

It was a fantastic morning. The sun was still low in the sky casting long shadows and fortunately the temperature hadn’t become too hot for a bit of manual labour.

I grew up in a city and I’ve only in the last few years have started to try and grow fruit and vegetables. I’ve had a little success with tomatoes and potatoes but without the sun (our garden is in a lot of shade) you can’t get very far.

Things are different in Abruzzo. I bet even I could grow big juicy, bursting with flavour tomatoes without trying to hard. There are so many tomatoes and so many different varieties that I bet  if you dig deep enough you’ll find a tomato stratum forming the base foundation of Abruzzo.

In a relatively small plot of land our friends were growing beans, courgettes, carrots, onions, aubergines, peppers, chillies and of course tomatoes.

They let me wander around taking photographs (you can avoid a lot of work if you hold a camera) as they gathered up their tools and bounty. After I’d stuck my head through every row of vegetables I could find I helped carry crates of tomatoes back to their car.

We were warned to wear long trousers and long sleave shirts and the reason quickly be came clear. I’ve been fighting a losing battle against mosquitoes and if ever there was a place they were going to get the upper hand it was la campagna.

I’ve tried a few methods of discouraging them from biting me. None are 100% effective and many are completely useless. Yesterday morning I used my trump card. I spayed every exposed piece of flesh with DEET 50 and walked confidently into their den. The DEET spray seemed to work quite well initially, but Italian mosquitoes seem to like Irish blood and after a while they found the spots that I hadn’t covered well enough. Once these pests find an opening they’re happy to bite the same spot over and over again. I lost the battle. But it was worth it, it was a fantastic way to start the day.

I was surprised how mucky the ground was considering there wasn’t much rain. I had to use a knife to scrape off enough soil to grow a healthy bunch of carrots when we were leaving.

Later we all got together again and enjoyed a wonderful lunch of various vegetable dishes, all sourced from that small plot of land. Homemade ice cream and limoncello followed – it was the best limoncello I’ve ever tasted. “Don’t buy it from a shop” I was warned. “It’s too sweet and the lemons aren’t fresh”. Well this limoncello was fantastic.

Food doesn’t come any fresher than this!

The Festa di San Zopito 2010 and How I Missed the Killer Shot!

Let’s get the killer shot business out of the way first.

I was on my knees at the entrance to the church of Santa Maria di Recepto waiting patiently for the arrival of the ox. I was feeling proud of my ingenuity. I knew it was going to be difficult to take a really good sharp photograph of the ox on its own, without anything or anybody getting in the way. But I had a plan.

I’d decided on three approaches:

  • Follow a really good local photographer as he found ideal vantage points (a little local knowledge goes a long way).
  • Escape the crowd and get to the church of Santa Maria di Recepto before everyone else and grab pole position.
  • Don’t rely on zooming, use a fast 50mm prime lens and get into the right positions.

Using the 50 mm prime lens on the Canon 400D was going to be a bit of a challenge. It makes it hard to take expansive shots of the crowd and the piazza but I thought t would be ideal for taking a portrait of the ox if I could get up close and personal. I was at the festival two years ago and I had plenty of wider angled shots so I was willing to make this little sacrifice.

It all really well to begin with and to tell the truth I was feeling happy about my approach. I managed to get some sharp photos of the ox and its handlers, I got some crowd pictures as they funnelled through the narrow streets and overall I thought I got better photographs than I did the last time I was at the festival.

But I wanted the killer shot, the crowning glory and I knew where I could get it. I headed for the little church early and got ready. After a while I was joined by other photographers and camera men vying for position as they placed themselves just inside the narrow entrance. It’s a small church, as small as they come, no more than a large room and I believe it is only opened once a year for the feast of San Zopito.

I waited. The crowd swelled outside. I was ready. First I heard the music from the Zampogna, a type of bagpipe being played by “the shepherds” and then came the ox. Mounting the ox far more confidently than I ever would was a young boy, dressed as a girl, with a red flower in his mouth, representing an angel. I rechecked the settings on my camera.  I wanted a portrait with a bit of depth so I set the aperture to f4.0. This was going to be great. The face of the ox and its colourful decorations would fill the frame and all distractions behind it would blur into insignificance. I was ready.

The ox approached. Its handlers were preparing for the most significant part of the ritual. The ox must genuflect in front of several churches on its journey through the town. This was a new ox. It had been trained for the procession and it seemed to be tackling the inclines of the narrow streets of Loreto Aprutino with ease.

Click, click, click, I got it! It was over so fast but I was sure I’d taken a great photo. After the ox and the procession moved on from the church I stepped outside and checked the images on my camera’s screen. Not the best way to check the quality of a photo but it can let you know if something went wrong.

Something had gone wrong. The pictures looked blurry. But I had a fast lens with a wide aperture why did this happen? And then I realised that in my excitement of being in the right place at the right time for what was going to be the most wonderful photograph I’d ever taken I had made a basic error. I wanted a sharp close-up of the ox with everything else blurring and what I got was a completely blurred image. Why? Simple really, it was basic camera shake. I never checked the shutter speed required to take the photo. It was slow enough that natural camera shake came into play. If I’d checked properly I’d have increased the ISO or opened the aperture a bit more and all would have been well. Anyone who had a basic point and click camera was likely to have a better photograph than I ended up with. Hey-ho, you live, you try, you learn! It was fun.

I hope to try again next year. 2011 is the three hundredth anniversary festival. Considering the efforts that went into the 299th anniversary I expect the Festa di San Zopito 2011 will be even more spectacular. You’ve got plenty of notice as it’s about 10 months away.  Fireworks, traditional music, marching bands and two processions of the ox on consecutive days make the San Zopito weekend very special. Put it in your diary; it takes place on the weekend of Pentecost Sunday which I believe is 11, 12, 13 June (but you should check this).

Where does it happen?

Loreto Aprutino (PE)

Why does this festival happen?

It commemorates a special event that occurred in 1711. The remains of the Christian martyr San Zopito were being transported from the catacombs of San Callisto in Rome. As the procession passed the Collattuccio district of Loreto Aprutino a farmer, Carlo Parlione, did not pay due homage to the Saint and continued to work in the field. His ox however, got down on its knees and genuflected in front of the passing relics recognising the holiness of the Saint. Later when the procession arrived in the village a relative of the farmer suddenly recovered from an illness.

Since then the events have been re-enacted using a trained ox that passes through Loreto Aprutino genuflecting at key churches in its path. On its back is a child with a red carnation in its mouth, (a boy I believe although many references say it’s a girl) dressed in a gold-embroidered white dress, wearing a crown of flowers and holding a small umbrella. The child represents an angel and it is this angel that according to tradition makes the ox kneel down.

When does it happen?

It occurs on the weekend of Pentecost Sunday (Whitsunday). But please note that the date of Pentecost changes each year as it is tied to the date of Easter. For example Pentecost was on 24 May in 2010 but I believe it is on 12 June in 2011.

The Sunday and the Monday are the main days to see the ox and the child. The relics of San Zopito are in procession through the town on Monday the actual feast day of San Zopito.

What happens in Loreto Aprutino as part of the festival?

Well since the 2008 festival was a bit different to the 2010 festival I suspect that what happens varies depending on budget but the 2010 festival included

  • the procession of the ox and child through the town in the morning of Pentecost Sunday
  • the procession of the ox, the child and the relics of San Zopito in the evening of Monday
  • Various bands playing in Piazza Garibaldi on Saturday, Sunday and Monday nights
  • A cycling race for the San Zopito trophy on Sunday afternoon
  • A wonderful fireworks display to close the festival on Monday night

Anything else?

2011 – 1711 = 300!!!

Worth noting 11, 12, 13 June Pentecost 2011 I think.

What is a Festival without a Marching Band?

Marching bands have grown on me. They hold a fascination for young and old alike and I think that fascination has bit by bit, infected me also.

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I didn’t always feel so positive towards them. In fact there was a time I agreed whole heartedly with this quote from Sir Thomas Beecham (1879 – 1961)

Brass bands are all very well in their place – outdoors and several miles away.

But as I’ve said they’ve grown on me. They’ve grown on me so much that I almost went to the Festival Internazionale di Bande Musicali XI Edizione Giulianova back in May. The only thing that stopped me was the Cantine Aperte weekend, which clashed with Giulianova’s marching band competition. What could I do? There are so many cantine and so little time! Next year the festival in Giulianova is on from 2nd to 5th June maybe I’ll get there in 2011.

But time spent in Abruzzo is rarely a marching band free zone. On 24th May a band spent the day in Loreto Aprutino as part of the San Zopito festival. The band came from Ailano in Campania and made the 3 hour journey to Loreto Aprutino to help keep the locals, and anyone else that visited, entertained on the last day of the Festa di San Zopito.

My first real life encounter with an Italian marching band was in Cepagatti (PE) in 2007. We were on the road from Chieti (CH) to Penne (PE) and out came a traffic policeman with his hand raised for us to stop.

This was a potentially traumatic moment! It was our first time driving in Italy, trying to understand unfamiliar road signs and getting used to being on the other side of the road. Not really knowing where we were going, trying to do a crash course in map reading, attempting to avoid motorways – all these elements added up to us having broken some rule and we were about to have an Italian-English conversation that was going to be difficult.

After waiting a moment we heard the sound; a marching band was walking through the town helping to commemorate an important feast day in the town’s calendar. We’d been asked to stop to give them a chance to do their job. Once they passed we were off the hook and could continue to on our desperate journey to find our destination.

For this year’s Festa di San Zopito the band from Ailano, or to give its full title Storico Gran Concerto Banistico Cittá di Ailano, was fantastic. Under the guiding hand of Nicola Hansalik Samale (Maestro Direttore Concertatore) it delivered all day long.

It started around 08:30 when the musicians made their way through the streets to the town monument and played a salute. Later they changed their uniform and played as the relics of San Zopito passed through the town. But it was later still, at around 21:00 that they really came into their own. With Il Maestro Nicola Hansalik Samale in change they treated their audience to some bitter-sweet music by Puccini.

We all sat around the temporary bandstand in Piazza Garibaldi and listened as this wonderful band from Ailano filled the air with gorgeous sounds from one of Italy’s best composers. During the day the band had made a journey in style from military marches, to songs of praise and then finally to opera. As I sat there in the warm May night I was amazed at their skill, talent and stamina to be able deliver such a wonderful performance having started it all twelve hours earlier.

The San Zopito festival in Loreto Aprutino this year was wonderful, and on Monday 24 May the Storico Gran Concerto Banistico Cittá di Ailano helped ensure it ended in style.

Bravi!