3 Random Photos

_mg_5406.jpg View from Atri 3 Ape 2

The Best Salsicce I’ve Ever Tasted

My friend Luigi has a farm, EE-I-EE-I-O.

And on that farm he has some…well he seems to have everything really.

Luigi lives very close to us in Loreto Aprutino. I exaggerated a little when I said he has a farm, he has a piece of land outside the town where he grows plenty of fruit and vegetables for his family for the year. Tomatoes, beans, courgettes you name it I bet Luigi grows it. The only fruit he doesn’t seem to grow is grapes. He buys them from a grower he trusts and makes his own wine – very tasty wine it is too.

His piece of land isn’t short on animals either. Ducks, geese, rabbits are there along with the big guys, the pigs.

A little while ago Luigi invited us over for dinner. “We’re having pig” he announced. What he meant was that he had killed a pig and that day, after the cuts had been taken and passed on to family and friends, they were having a celebratory meal and we were invited.

This was not a meal for vegetarians.

On the menu were slices of pork, pasta with a pork based sauce and various types of salsicce (sausages). All washed down with his very own Montepulciano D’Abruzzo.

Earlier that day as I was walking by, Luigi called me to his garage and there, instead of his car, his motorbike or his Ape, were benches set up for food preparation. With a few friends he was busy mincing the pork to make the pasta sauce and the salsicce.

I’d offered to help but our host would have none of it. I think he felt that it was a job for professionals and amateurs like me would slow the process down. I was good for eating the result – I think he had me sussed.

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Later when we arrived for dinner we saw that a little miracle had changed the pork into perfectly formed salsicce.

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I asked Luigi if he buys anything he eats from the shops or supermarkets. It turns out he does but not very often. Typically he grows it or raises it himself, negotiates with friends who have what he needs, buys from the market and then, maybe then, buys from a shop.

Being able to trace what’s on your plate back to its very place of origin, food provenance, has become an important issue in the last few years. I bet Luigi could tell you exactly where everything on his plate came from.

I grew up in a city and that ensured I had no real exposure to growing vegetables or raising animals. I’ve grown a few tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beans in buckets, raised beds and pots. Not enough to feed a family for a week but still I grew them and it was fun.

I don’t have a romantic notion of owning/renting a bit of land a growing food for a year. It’s hard work and although very rewarding I think my skills are better served elsewhere right now.

Luigi is retired but you’d never think it. He’s an inspiration. An early riser, he takes care of his animals and all he grows while the sun is not yet too hot. If there’s a festival of any sort being organised he’s usually in the thick of it. I think he only stays still when he’s eating.

We had a great night and when we eventually waddled home to our beds we vowed we wouldn’t eat again for a week.

Well that didn’t happen. :-)

Memories of Maria

I’ve searched through my files but I don’t think I have a photograph of Maria.

No I tell a lie – I don’t think I have a photograph of Maria’s face.

I’ve a photograph that shows a figure (that I’m fairly certain is Maria) walking away from me up a small street, but that image doesn’t do her justice.

She had a bright face, with silver hair and a mischievous glint in her eye.

She spoke in the local dialect so I could never really understand much of what she was saying. At the time my Italian was pretty poor (yes it’s improved :-) ) but with or without Italian I’d have had difficulties.

But communication isn’t just by the spoken word and somehow Maria and I “chatted”. I think she was the first close neighbour from Loreto Aprutino to call to the house we were renting at the time. She brought a gift. It was a plum tart.

She was in her eighties but very spritely – although at least one younger neighbour (seventies) said she wasn’t in complete control of her faculties. Funny, that’s what some of the even younger neighbours sometimes say of those in their seventies.

She died a few years ago. Peacefully I was told.

She didn’t die in the earthquake of 2009, she didn’t die around Easter, she just died.

We were back in Loreto and as we went through the names of everybody we knew we were told the sad news.

I liked Maria and I was sad to hear of her passing.

I think the anniversary of the earthquake and the sense of loss that’s associated with 308 deaths and 60,000 people made homeless left me open for Maria to call once again.

Chasing Easter in Abruzzo

I’ve never been in Abruzzo for Easter.

Each year P and I have a similar discussion, which starts with “we must go next year” and ends with “we can’t because” once we check the dates.

Check the dates, that’s the key. Since Easter can fall between 22 March and 25 April it isn’t as simple as Christmas or the New Year.

This year Easter falls on 8 April for Western Christianity (Roman Catholic, Anglican Communion, Protestant Churches, etc.), that’s tomorrow week.

When we were in Abruzzo for the 3 months of April, May and June in 2008 you’d think that we would have had a great chance to experience this moveable feast.

No, it didn’t happen. Easter fell on 23 March that year we missed out, the beginning of a pattern I really hope to break.

But it isn’t Easter that obsesses me. It is the Stations of the Cross or Via Crucis. In Ireland, the Stations of the Cross are observed on Good Friday, the Friday before Easter, which this year is on 6 April. Traditionally the faithful make a spiritual pilgrimage of prayer and meditate upon the chief moments of Christ’s sufferings and death, helped by a series of artistic representations depicting Christ Carrying the Cross to his crucifixion.

But it’s a little different in Loreto Aprutino. Typically on the Sunday before Easter (Palm Sunday) there is a re-enactment of the Via Crucis with people in period costumes. If your Italian is up to it you can read about this event here.

In summary, the Aricicofraternita Sacro Monte dei Morti e Santa Maria della Pieta present the Via Crucis, a historical representation of the Passion of our Lord Jesus’ Christ with figures in period costumes, at 19:00 on 01/04/2012, Palm Sunday.

The re-enactment starts at Chiesa San Pietro  and takes a path all though the old town as this list of locations indicate:

Chiesa San Pietro(washing of the feet) -Castello Chiola (death sentence) – via Baio – via Degli Aquino – Largo Buco – via Marconi – P.za Unita’ D’Italia – via Montelauro – Chiesa San Biagio – via M.Pennesi – Chiesa Sant’Antonio – via dei Normanni – P.za Garibaldi – via V.Veneto – P.le Monumento – via C. Bonfiglio – residence La Fornace (Cucifixion).

But of course I’m going to miss it again.

Here is a small selection of photographs taken by Lino Rosetti during the 2008, 2010 and 2011 events.

If you are nearby it’s definitely worth being part of this most important event in the Catholic calendar.

In 2013 Easter falls on 31 March, which means Palm Sunday is on 24 March. I’ve put it in my diary; maybe next year I’ll break the pattern.